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The object of barrel break in is to shrink groups and make your weapon more accurate while increasing bullet velocity. In addition a properly broke in barrel fouls much later and requires less cleaning. Every firearm received regardless of barrel composition is properly broke in prior to delivery. Stainless steel, chrome moly, chrome lined match or machine gun barrels all undergo the following procedures in order to optimize accuracy and insure extended barrel life. Typical conducted break in can exceed 3 hours per firearm. We expect after barrel break in to see groups shrink an absolute minimum of 10%, maximum documented over 60% and an average of 25%. Worth the time, effort, and money. Rocke Guns does not use sanding paste or grit to smooth barrels and strongly recommends it is never used in any of our supplied barrels. All ammunition used for barrel break in comes out of our inventory not yours. Conducted break in is as follows:

Fire one round. Utilizing an appropriate bore guide and cleaning rod (see cleaning instructions below) we run Hoppes thru until patches are clean.
Switch to bronze brush and scrub as described below. We then switch to Sweet’s until all copper fouling removed and patch’s run clean. Back to Hoppe’s to remove the Sweet’s.
Repeat above TEN TIMES oiling after 5th and 10th round.

Fire three rounds repeat above but substitute Barrett’s Copper Remover for the Sweet’s (no smell, won’t burn the barrel, biodegradable).
Repeat above TEN TIMES oiling after 5th and 10th round.

Fire five rounds repeat above with Barrett’s.
Repeat above TWO TIMES oiling after completion.

Following day strip and clean once with Sweet’s and once with Barrett’s. Completely disassemble entire firearm and dip in firearm degreaser. Upon drying re-oil and reassemble.
Fire 2 fouling rounds.
Fire 5 shot group for record/file with moa %.
Ship to customer or heavily oil and store.


MTM Case Gard (rifle holding tray)
Carbon Fiber cleaning rod (Tipton’s) appropriate length, mandatory
Bore Guide for caliber and weapon (bolt/AR), mandatory
No steel rods, sectional rods, stainless steel rods or coated steel rods!!
Always clean from the breech or butt end never the barrel end!
One patch per swipe please!

Mount weapon in Case Guard barrel pointing away, install bore guide

Using Hoppes run one patch thru from breech end. Once patch pokes out the barrel remove patch pull rod out replace patch run Hoppes thru again.

Repeat till kinda clean. Replace with bronze brush, dip in Hoppe’s, scrub a dub back and forth 10x times keeping brush wet.

Pull brush and run clean patches thru one each swipe till clean. OK OK we know conventional wisdom say’s you’re supposed to run the bronze brush thru once, remove at barrel end, pull rod out, reattach bronze brush, run thru once, remove, repeat. This is supposed to save the brush as it will follow the twist rate out but not back in thereby wearing the brush out quicker. You just spent thousands on a rifle, the brush costs $1.50, it scrubs better going back and forth and since it’s bronze it won’t scratch or mar the barrel. Go for it! That said never use a stainless steel brush or a “tornado”.

Once cleaned with Hoppe’s clean with Sweet’s or Barrett’s Copper remover. Hoppe’s will not reliably remove Copper and Sweet’s is a mess removing carbon. Remember Sweet’s is like an acid! If you leave it in your barrel for extended periods of time it can eat it; 5 minutes sitting period with Sweet’s seems right. Barrett’s doesn’t smell, won’t eat barrels and does a good job removing copper so you’re call. Run a patch thru soaked, let sit for 5 minutes, then dry patch.

Attach a nylon brush dip in Sweet’s or Barrett’s, scrub a dub again 10x times. Back to patches till clean. Note: Copper residue will come out blue colored on your patches- clean till no more blue shows. Do not use a bronze brush with copper remover as it will eat the bronze and show false blue indications!

Run gun oil of your choice thru barrel on soaked patch. Spray all exterior with spray gun oil (Remington’s works best for this).

With A/R style rifles we usually spray our lowers with a bore cleaner and scrub with toothbrushes. After scrubbed clean we spray with a can of degreaser/solvent washing out all debris and oil.


Just completed a grueling 1500 round tactical course at Blackwater? So much carbon you can scrape it off with a fingernail? Break down your weapon and take a shower or bath with it. Hot water, soap, scrub brush will do wonders. Blow dry and clean as above. No Dorothy water won’t rust your weapon as prescribed so stop it!

Another option albeit slightly dangerous is to immerse and soak the weapon in diesel fuel. This is the preferred method for removing packing/shipping grease (cosmoline) from numerous weapons at a time but remember diesel does have a flash point and it will permanently stain your clothes.

Mil Spec full stock? Plastic parts turning gray ugly and faded? Oil doesn’t help? Put Armor All or equivalent on.. surprise!

So you’re barrel is properly broken in and you fired 10 rounds. Should you clean it? If you want to fine if you don’t fine. Repetitive unnecessary cleaning can also lead to wear and tear on any weapons system.